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Adriane Berg March 15, 2006 - 9:01pm. |
There is Something for Everyone in Vienna
Vienna is a sensible city that exudes romance. One moment you may find yourself in the Schoenbrunn Palace, home of the Hapsburgs, with their Jay Leno chins, its opulence of rivaling Versailles, its Chinoisserie trumping those at the Pavilion in Brighton, England. But, the next moment you may find yourself in a rustic beer hall, offered hardy fair of stew and apple cake. And always the music plays, and the waltz goes on. And so this is Vienna. It is over stated luxury from a time that ruling families could build summer palaces for their horses, where Graham Green could luxuriate in the Café Mozart and write "The third Man," but also where just across the street from the café you will find a gut-wrenching statue of an old Jew scrubbing the side walk on his belly, a commemoration of the torture under the Nazi regime. There is no better time to consider a visit to Vienna. Students who have not yet been to Europe are naturally tempted to start with London or Paris. For your break consider Vienna, instead. I believe I can make a good case as to why. *History* - Vienna has the look of the quintessential European City, the Europe of your imagination. It's wide boulevards, elaborate Baroque buildings, and old town are right out of central casting. It is impossible to turn a corner without finding yourself face to face with history. One of the most profound museum installations I have ever encountered is "The New Vienna," at the Galarie Belvedere in one of Europe's most beautiful Baroque palaces. The title alludes to the treaty made in 1955, by the four World War II victors, France, the Soviet Union, England, and the United States freeing Austria. But the exhibit is much more than that. It takes the visitor from the after math of World War I and the collapse of Austria-Hungary through the cold war and the bitter event sin between. The presentations mix the art of the times with the their contemporary historical events. You will find this type of innovation throughout the city, whether you seek art, history music or design. But for the temperament of Vienna you must visit the Schoenbrunn Palace. It is both stunning and an intimate venue for the Viennese. Your guide can't help making you part of the Court gossip of the time, as you traverse the living genealogy chart of the Hapsburgs. All of European royalty met at the cross roads of their family tree. You will gain an understanding of the linkages of Western and Eastern Europe, as no history class can deliver. At Christmas the Schoenbrunn is home to the best (in my opinion) Christmas Market in the city. It boasts special and delightful exhibits like the Fluttering Wings, a charming display of Christmas Angels. Don't pass up the children's bakeshop, hidden on a lower floor, where you will find Tante Fanny products to bring back to the dorm. I made my own ginger bread cookie along with the tots, and brought home packages of well sealed dough and sprinkles in the shape of starts and confetti. We made a baking party of it when we got home. Vienna is a walking city. You will rarely need to spend money on cab fare. Vienna is safe. Never once, even after mid night, was I admonished not to walk to my destination. And the grandeur of the city streets makes the walks worth the effort. Start with the Vienna card, "Die Wien Karte." Its motto is "Vienna waits for you." Its guide lists all the places that offer a discount, and the small brochure that accompanies the Karte is your best source of what to see in the city. If you can make them all, you'll have encountered the best of Vienna. Wander to the Danube, skirt the open market places, and see the vendors selling sausages, fennel, chocolates and live chickens. Visit the Saturday antique, crafts and flea market at the Dorotheum. This is a place where you can walk with a basket and select your own picnic; or find a stall of peasant's foods that can be later cooked to gourmet status. *Music and Art* - When it comes to music it would be possible to simply say "Mozart and leave it at that. But, there is so much more. January 27, 2006 marks the 250th anniversary of Mozart's birth. The preparations are fit for a genius. For Mozart events visit www.mozart2006.com. The town home where he lived at the end of his life has been converted into the Mozarthouse Vienna Museum, and will be opened twenty four hours a day during the birthday celebration. For information visit, www.mozarthousevienna.at. The National Library hosts the original of Mozart's Requiem, a controversial and mystical composition that was finished after Mozart's death. Fanatics can dine at the Zum Finsteren Stern 2 located at Palais Collalto where Mozart gave his first performance in Vienna as a child in 1761. In Vienna music is healing. The Vienna Boys Choir may be heard in the United States, and on cds any where in the world. But, in their home at the renowned Konzerthaus, the music and ambience moves you in a different way. It transports you to another time, when things were neat, and predictable. But, unlike the sturdy tradition of it music, fine art in Vienna, even in the old days, has always been edgy. Artist have been a gad fly class, at the very least, a threat to the established order. Realism, as displayed in the Belvedere's New Vienna exhibit includes a portrait by of a man wearing a paper fools cap. "The Kiss," perhaps Gustav Klimt's single most famous single piece, shows the touch of lovers standing on a precipice, and subsumed in the fabric of space. While the mega museums of Europe may rival the Kunsthistorisches Museum www.khm.at, in terms of the volume of art on display, the scale and sheer physical beauty of the building will stay with you longer than the corridors of its larger, feet blistering counterparts. The Kunsthistorisches Museum offers one of the great art and food adventures found in any city. Every Thursday evening a bountiful buffet is available and between endless courses, flowing champagne, and a fountain (literally) of chocolate, you can browse through the recent Goya exhibit or view the permanent Flemish collection. On Sunday the brunch buffet is an all you can eat extravaganza. If you can splurge once, that's the one. *The Jewish Question* - Even the most casual observer must recognize that during the last decade there has been a shift in Vienna's approach to its role in the holocaust, and Nazism. As an American Jew I have complicated feelings about that shift. And if for no other reason then that, I find it compelling to visit Vienna. Your walks will take you past many street monuments and holocaust structures that commemorate those killed. But at the two Jewish Museums (the Vienna pass gives you discounts to both) that you are reminded how divesting the ethnic cleansing was. The museums are remarkable because of how little is left for display. Entire rooms are taken up with banners of names of those killed and those who fled. *Romance* - To credit Vienna with being Europe's capital of Romance you do not have to go much further than the waltz. No matter how kitsch or retro, waltzing make the spirit soar. Best yet, there is no way to do the dance and stay on your feet without gazing deeply into the eyes of your partner. Corporate team retreats and couples therapy alike suggest this gazing technique to help us bond, soul to soul. How much more effective and lasting is the bond, when coupled on a glittering dance floor waltzing to the strains of Strauss? *Vienna for Christmas* - The fantasies of child hood are evoked when you visit Vienna at Christmas. Vienna uses the pre holiday season to unite in its streets under small tents offering Punsch-a variety of delicious and potent beverages served up hot, and sometimes mit shlag (whipped cream.) The holiday foods of Austria, from ginger cookies, chocolate devils (the "Satin Santa" so popular at Christmas) to sausages and stews are served up in peasant plates with generous helpings of grainy breads and rich butter. It s time to meet greet and indulge.The catalogue of markets run as follows:
*Food* A wise friend once told me, "Eat Desert first." And that is exactly what the Viennese do. Step first step into the old button shop that houses the delicacies of Vienna's "Chocolate King," Schokoladekonig". Taste the hot chocolate. You will remember the silky feel of it, the intoxicating smell, and the velvet taste all your life. At 4 Euros, it is arguably the best food bargain in all of Europe. My colleague snuck back six times, addicted to the experience. You will also have to sit for a while at the traditional Viennese coffee houses where the likes of Freud, and so many others, still caste their shadow of immortality. Try the stew or schnitzel or apple cake, anything traditional with a red Austrian wine. I suggest the Café Central, perhaps the most famous in the City. *Getting there* - Austrian Airlines reflects the tenor of the country. It is reliable, predictable and comfortable. You are transported to the feel and culture of Austria the moment you step onto the plane. Effort is made to serve the pure foods, salty dishes and good wines you will encounter when you disembark. Austria Airlines is generous with its food in quantity and quality, in these times, a near miracle. I ate the wonderful salmon in economy class, and was offered the finest wines in Business Class. Many attendants have sommelier diplomas from the Austrian Wine Academy and it shows across all seat categories. Somehow it's extra festive and puts you in the winter break spirit to be greeted by an attended wearing a badge that reads " Sommelier on Board." As for the food, I cannot say it rivals the exquisite cuisine of the country itself, but at tries. All chefs that create recipes must have received one or more Toque awards from the Gault-Millau Travel Guides. Arriving at the airport is very convenient. It takes only 16 minutes by commuter train to get to the heart of the city. Austrian Airlines has several hubs in the US, including New York, AND Washington DC. The airline also flies to London, and 130 other destinations worldwide. Its domestic frequent flyer miles partner is United Airlines. If you plan to visit Austria as an add on to a European jaunt, look into Austrian Airlines costs and schedules. For sale fare specials check out www.austrianair.com, or call 1-800-843-0002. If you are on a splurge, and a buy business class fare to a destination other than Austria. you can get a free Vienna stopover, fit for a Hapsburg. "Vienna On Us" offers a free limo from your departure site to the airport, a free overnight stay at a 5 star hotel in Vienna, and a dinner and breakfast at the hotel.
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